This shirt is 100% Tencel, you say? Well, what in the world is that?
Don’t worry: you’re not the only one wondering. Touted as softer, stronger, and more breathable than cotton, it’s worth asking: What is Tencel fabric? Wonder no more.
What is Tencel Fabric?
Tencel fabric has been around longer than you may realize: the technology was first developed back in 1972. But its popularity has spread dramatically in recent years with the rise in eco-friendly clothing brands and the demand for comfy apparel. Interestingly, Tencel is a branded version of lyocell. (Think “ChapStick®” vs. “lip balm.”) A sub-type of rayon, lyocell fibers come from cellulose found in wood pulp.
How Tencel Compares to Cotton
Tencel is often touted as softer, stronger, and more breathable than cotton. It’s usually blended with other fibers like cotton for a softer finish and feel. Tencel is a manmade fiber derived from wood, while cotton is a natural fiber. Generally, Tencel is more breathable and moisture-wicking than cotton.
Who Invented Tencel?
The lyocell process, later branded as Tencel, was developed in 1972 by a now-defunct fibers facility in Enka, North Carolina. The process earned the Henry E. Millson Award for Invention in 2003 by the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists. After the Enka facility closed, Courtaulds Fibres in the UK further developed lyocell, creating Tencel. In 1990, the Courtaulds Fibre rayon factory in Mobile, Alabama, first commercialized Tencel. The Tencel division changed hands a few times until Lenzing AG purchased it in 2000. Lenzing combined Tencel with their “Lenzing Lyocell” but kept the Tencel brand name.
How is Tencel Fabric Made?
Lyocell, the fiber in Tencel, is made by dissolving wood pulp using a variant of wet spinning called “dry jet-wet spinning.” This process creates polymer fibers by dissolving wood pulp in a solvent, then extruding it through small holes to form threads. These threads are drawn into dry air, chemically treated in a liquid bath, and finally spun into yarn to be woven into fabric.
What is Tencel’s Environmental Impact?
Tencel is more eco-friendly than many fabrics. As a fiber from natural sources, it’s biodegradable. Tencel comes from eucalyptus trees that don’t need pesticides or irrigation. According to Lenzing AG, they can grow enough trees for a ton of Tencel on half an acre of unsuitable farmland. Lenzing sources materials from certified and controlled sources like sustainably managed plantations.
Tencel production uses a closed-loop process called REFIBRA™ technology, recovering and recycling 99% of chemical solvents. This system also upcycles cotton scraps from garment production, minimizing waste and emissions. Lenzing AG won the European Award for the Environment for this process.
On the downside, Tencel is mixed with conventional dyes, which can be harmful to the environment. However, Tencel requires less dye than cotton. The main concern is the energy needed for production. Lenzing is working on energy efficiency, including using bioenergy from wood and other technological measures to reduce fossil fuel use.
What’s So Special About Tencel?
Okay, let’s get to the good stuff -- what makes Tencel fabric so special? Does it smell like eucalyptus trees? Well, unfortunately, your Tencel blouse will not carry the scent of eucalyptus. But, it will offer many other valuable benefits:
Soft + Strong
Tencel fabric is known for its softness and durability (wet or dry).
Breathable + Absorbent
Tencel is extremely breathable and absorbent, keeping garments cool and dry.
Less Shrinking + Fading + Wrinkling
Tencel resists shrinking, fading, and wrinkling better than many other fabrics.
What Types of Clothing Use Tencel Fabric?
Tencel fabric is perfect for activewear due to its moisture-absorbing, breathable, and soft properties. Tencel garments are flattering and drape beautifully, making it a great choice for shirts and blouses. For example, a 100% Tencel women’s denim shirt feels softer and airier than traditional denim and drapes well for a flattering silhouette.
So, what is Tencel fabric? An impressive alternative to other fabrics, produced with an eco-friendly process, and offering many benefits. Tencel pieces pair nicely with our leather duffle bags and leather messenger bags for a refined yet rugged look. Turning wood pulp into fabric!? Technically, those lyocell fibers aren’t made of magic, but we wouldn’t be surprised to hear it. Want to learn more about sustainable fabrics? Read our blog post on A Guide to Recycled Clothing: How Are Shirts Made from Plastic Bottles?