Leather has been around since ancient times. While the basic process of turning animal hides into leather hasn’t changed much, some improvements over the centuries have made the process less gruesome. (If you’re squeamish, you might want to skip the next part.)
Early Leather Crafting
Leather starts as animal skin. Early humans found many uses for hides, with cave drawings from as early as 20,000 BC showing leather clothing. The first reference to tanned leather, a preserved version of rawhide, comes much later.
Ancient Tanning Methods
Around 8,000 BC, people began tanning hides to preserve them. Early methods were pretty gross—they used urine or brains to treat the hides. This method stayed the same for thousands of years, with various cultures using other substances like dung, lime, fat, and salt.
Greek Innovation
The ancient Greeks revolutionized tanning by using water-soaked leaves and tree barks, a method called vegetable tanning. This process used natural tannins from plants to bind with the collagen in hides, making them water-resistant and bacteria-proof. By 500 BC, vegetable-tanned leather was common in Greece and was later used by Romans for clothes, sandals, and military gear.
Medieval and Renaissance Leatherwork
During the Middle Ages, leather artisans began decorating their work with stamped patterns. The Moors of Spain excelled in this craft, creating intricate designs on saddles that made their way to the New World with the Conquistadors. Vegetable tanning became a staple in Europe and the colonies, vital for everyday life.
The Industrial Revolution
The Industrial Revolution changed leather production. Machinery allowed for quicker, cheaper production, though the quality suffered. This era also saw a demand for new types of leather, like the belts used in machinery and softer, lighter footwear.
Chromium Tanning
To meet new demands, chromium tanning was developed. This method used chromium sulfate, which was faster and produced more flexible leather suitable for mass production. However, it wasn’t as good for detailed leatherwork as vegetable tanning. Despite this, chromium tanning nearly wiped out the traditional vegetable tanning method.
World War I and Leathercraft Revival
After WWI, leather was scarce, but leatherworking became a therapeutic activity for recovering soldiers. This helped revive vegetable tanning and handcrafted leatherwork. Charles Tandy, inspired by these programs, introduced leathercraft kits to the public, leading to the creation of Tandy Leather, a well-known name in leathercraft today.
Modern Leather Production
Today, most leather products are chromium tanned and mass-produced in India or China. However, vegetable tanning is still favored by smaller producers of handcrafted goods. Despite industrial advancements, the tradition of skilled leather artisans continues.
Interested in the history of other popular materials and bags? Learn about waxed canvas, one of the oldest materials in the world, or discover how backpacks evolved from knapsacks.
